Another celebrity chef's steakhouse is coming to DC

After literally just reviewing the last celebrity steakhouse to hit DC, there’s news of the next one on its way. Jean-Georges Vongerichten, a legitimately world-renowned chef, has chosen DC for his next restaurant: J&G Steakhouse, the second of this kind. Like Bourbon Steak, it will be stationed in a re-modeled swanky hotel, the W Hotel, in the former Hotel Washington space. Hopefully it’ll be more memorable than the last chef of his stature to open shop in DC, Alain Ducaisse with Adour.

Here are a few reasons I’m optimistic and excited about J&G. First, Jean-Georges can masterfully cook just about any cuisine, but he’s really known for bringing Asian influences and spices into other forms of cooking. His flagship restaurant, the eponymous Jean Georges, ties Asian and French flavors together and it’s supposed to be one hell of a restaurant - recently ranked the 19th best restaurant in the world. I have no idea what direction he’ll take J&G, but an Asian-influenced American steakhouse would be a really different and exciting addition.

If his other J&G Steakhouse is any indication, there won’t be much Asian influence but the concept of less is more is likely to prevail. His other J&G, in the Phoenician Hotel in Scottsdale, features a number of quality steaks at surprisingly normal prices: filet mignon for $28, NY strip for $30 and hanger steak frites for only $18 (Maybe my single favorite dish on earth). Prices like that would clearly differentiate them from rivals and would put J&G in contention with Ray's the Steaks for ownership of the mid-priced steakhouse market that Ray’s currently dominates.

And finally, if my one experience at a Jean-Georges restaurant is any indication, we’re in for a show. My meal at his Vegas steakhouse, Prime, was one of the more memorable of my life, in possibly the most luxurious room I’ve ever eaten in.

Vongerichten's Prime Steakhouse in the Bellagio Hotel

Now I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention a few hesitations as well. On the one hand, I’m thrilled that a number of refined steakhouses have come to DC, providing a very welcome change in food and scene from the mega chains like Mortons, Ruths Chris et al (although I do love the dry-aged strip at cap grille). But the problem with these new celeb-steakhouses is they aren’t actually manned by the chef’s whose names adorn them, so they are hardly local restaurants. In fact, the locally-owned-and-run steakhouse scene is pretty small: Ray's the Steaks, Sam and Harry’s, the Caucus Room, and then ?. Given how badly local restaurants have it in these economic times coupled with the influx of new steakhouses, it’s really important to remember and support the local spots.

Then again, maybe I should just shut up and be happy more steak is on the way.