Wednesday, February 11, 2009

Taylor Gourmet


Taylor Gourmet is a model of contradictions: classic but trendy, basic yet innovative. One of the latest additions to H St. NE, Taylor Gourmet, which sees itself as the DC incarnation of a Philadelphia deli, is part Italian deli and part gourmet Italian goods shop.

Upon arriving at Taylor, one immediately realizes this is no basic Italian deli. The space, very long but only 20 feet wide, is a paradigm of modern trendy patterns. Designed by DC firm Grupo 7 (Mate, K Street Lounge), the restaurant has exposed brick walls, reclaimed wood adorned throughout, and a balance of natural light in front and modernistic track lighting behind. The visual attention Taylor’s owners paid to the space is especially obvious given the dilapidated and shuttered buildings immediately surrounding in every direction.  


The entrance of Taylor Gourmet...

The market inside combines high quality basics with trendy concoctions, ranging from fine Italian olive oils and a nice selection of Italian wines to champagne and wine flavored ice cream, including pinot noir and merlot. Other interesting additions include their soda fountain, which serves drinks that use suger cane rather than corn syrup.

But the real focus here is not ambience, setting, or specialty product, it’s the sandwiches and they are spot on. There’s scarcely something more classic or basic than deli meats served in a hearty roll, but Taylor Gourmet distinguishes themselves with only the best ingredients: meats and aged cheeses imported from Italy, tomato sauce homemade daily, and rolls delivered daily from Sarcone’s Bakery, the (literally) legendary Philadelphia Italian bakery. This fundamental respect for classic, basic, and delicious ingredients is what makes the difference in their sandwiches.

The deli counter

Further playing on the Philadelphia theme, all their sandwiches and salads are named after Philly streets and roadways. I ordered their signature sandwich, the 9th street Italian ($7 for 6-inch, $9 for 12-inch), which was prosciutto, salami, capicola, aged provolone, oil, and shredded lettuce in a seeded roll. The sandwich was heavenly. The overflowing meats and cheeses were top quality and more than enough food, but Taylor clearly isn’t the first DC deli to serve enormous portions of great cured meats (The Italian Store anyone?). However, the seeded bread from Sarcone’s was unlike any I’ve eaten in DC: golden, crisp, and crackly on the outside while soft and light on the inside. It was easily the best roll I’ve eaten in DC, the bread fundamentally changed and distinguished the sandwich.

The 9th Street Italian

My friend had the breaded chicken cutlet sandwich, served with tomato sauce on a seeded roll, a no cheese variation of the Benjamin Franklin Parkway ($7 for 6-inch, $9 for 12-inch). The chicken was nicely breaded and cooked well, while their homemade tomato sauce was light and fresh. Here, as well, the Sarcone’s roll reigned supreme and was the sandwich difference maker. The bread crackled on the outside, but sopped up all the tomato sauce inside for a delectable treat.

Taylor Gourmet may be a contradiction in many ways, but it works. Their respect for great classic ingredients, innovative products, a trendy and unique atmosphere, and a slew of food most anyone enjoys work together to make a successful Italian deli, err, hoagie shop, err, gourmet food store, err, well whatever you want to call it.


Taylor Gourmet
1116 H St. NE
Washington, DC 20002
202-684-7001
http://www.taylorgourmet.com


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