Tuesday, February 17, 2009

First Thoughts: The Gibson


Last night I finally went to The Gibson, DC’s newest hit bar, modeled after a 1920’s speakeasy. My delay in going was not for a lack of trying, since unlike most bars, getting into The Gibson is no small feat. Reservations are required for the 10 or so tables, and there are about 10 seats at the bar reserved for walk-ins. After trying to make reservations for a while on weekends, we finally settled on a Monday night at 8pm. In fact, when we asked for Sunday night, there was only one available table 9pm for two. Needless to say, the Gibson has not been hurt by the recession.

Although at 14th and U, The Gibson can be practically impossible to find if you don’t know what to look for. Situated on the first floor of a completely unmarked building, the exterior looks like a shuttered warehouse with a simple black door on the side. Upon entering, there is a skinny hallway and a flight of carpeted stairs that feels more like a group of old apartments than a bar. I was met in the hallway by a suit-wearing host who quickly whisked me inside and to my table. Upon entering, I was immediately struck by the darkness of the room, the large and beautiful bar, and the unique seating options. The walls and furniture are wood paneled and painted black, while the main area is lit by five pendent lights that snake down from the ceiling to a wiry bulb that hangs above the bar’s counter. The bar is long, sleek, and beautiful, ten seats across and stocked with the finest liquors around. The stools are adorned with luxurious brown leather upholstery while the legs are wooden and painted black. The main room also includes a front area with three white marble tables for two (crammed next to each other) as well as three seductive and private booths across from the bar, probably the best seats in the house.

Besides the black panels, our booth was upholstered with deep red cushions and had it’s own private ceiling with track and recess lighting, as well as a bright orange ceiling upholstery (made with cloth) that literally POPPED with life. Without question, I was more drawn to the orange cloth ceiling than any other accent in the whole bar. The other booths and the second room also have divided cloth ceilings, each of a different color: burnt orange, tangerine, cream, and rose. As for the rest of the second room, its far simpler with a square design, no more than 20x20 feet, with three tables on either side and a beautiful serving table in the middle. Usually used for large cheeses or charcuterie in fine restaurants, this table held garnishes and water jugs.

The Gibson clearly paid a great deal of attention to décor, and I believe it set the tone deservingly well. The incredible attention to lighting alone created a scene that was dark enough for a private occasion, although no area was unlit or too dark to see the rest of your party. In our booth, we felt completely private yet could still feel the buzz from the bar so it was never solemn or dull. That privacy is also largely due to their restrictive entrance policies, we never felt overcrowded or were distracted by people walking by.

Once at our table, our waitress served water, provided the menus, and gently informed us that our check would be brought in two hours, since all reservations are two hours long. Dressed in a uniform black dress, she was more concierge than waitress, answering questions and providing interesting details about the menu and the space, but was far from overbearing. The only glaring service problem was that it took 20 minutes to actually receive drinks after ordering – if the company hadn’t been good it might have been more of an issue.

As for the actual drinks, the menu is split up by gin/vodka drinks, rum/tequila, whiskey drinks, brandy drinks, champagne options, red and white wine selections and one non-Alcoholic lemon drink. Prepared by two mixologists, the menu includes both classic cocktails and house-created recipes, using both unique liquors and high quality basics. I started with a bourbon Manhattan ($10), which was deliciously smooth and rounded. A Manhattan certainly isn’t the most complex drink, but often bartenders either overpour the bourbon or the vermouth and you end up with either a drink that’s too sharp or too sweet. Not at The Gibson. The second drink I tried was a Sazerac ($8), America’s first cocktail. In another tribute to the days of the Speakeasy, this New Orleans born drink is served with rye, absinthe, bitters, and a burnt orange peel. It was strong, yet the orange flavor was distinct and added a delicious extra component. For that drink and others served with peels, the peel was lit on fire tableside by the waitress and then touched along the rim of the glass and dropped in, just one of their distinguishing touches.

While we didn’t sample the whole menu, the whisky drinks were more of a hit and we were less enamored with the sweeter concoctions that tasted more like strange desserts than actual drinks. One friend ordered a specialty drink with fig infused rum that looked like a gold sprinkled mango puree, but had a distinctly vanilla taste to it, not necessarily bad but clearly a drink you only have for the experience.

All in all, I was impressed by the décor and ambience, and appreciative of the unique idea and drink options. The classics were made beautifully and for around $10 a-piece, they are certainly worth coming back for. Other specialty bars and lounges around town are comparably priced, but few afford the privacy or the unique feel of being at a speakeasy. On the flip side, I wouldn’t recommend The Gibson for a long night of drinking or for those looking to meet and mingle with others, you’ll quickly be disappointed and your wallet will leave considerably lighter. As long as you can get a reservation and are accompanied by someone you’d like to spend a few hours in conversation with, The Gibson is more than worth the effort.

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