Commissary

I came upon Commissary not so much from recommendations but because I was searching for a moderately priced meal appropriate for a big group near Dupont/U Street. Having been to Alero and Lorial Plaza (more than) enough times, I figured we could do without basic Mexican, again. It also helped that Commissary’s owners, EatwellDC, have a strong track record of operating popular moderately-priced restaurants, including Grillfish, Logan Tavern, and The Heights (Although, I’ve seldom enjoyed Grillfish... but that’s a different conversation).

I wasn’t sure what to expect for dinner especially since they are much better known for their breakfast menu, which happens to be available until 5pm daily. What I found was a relaxed and inviting environment, a long attractive bar, a whole lot of patriotism and simple yet really tasty American comfort food.

Named after the military provisions stores, Commissary smacks of pure Americana from their logo outside, American flags hanging inside, walls adorned with monster chalk boards listing the hand drawn menus and of course their motto “honest pricing”. The space is large and airy, well suited for just about any type of meal or just coffee and drinks. 

And at $7.50, those cocktails were both popular and reasonably priced. Highlights included the Stoly Doly with house made pineapple-infused vodka; the Derby with bourbon, mint syrup, mint and lime; and one drink as American as apple pie, literally - Hot Apple Pie, made of apple cider, Tuaca and cinnamon served warm.

As for the food, the menu was large and accommodating to most every palette and size of appetite, with options ranging from hot and cold small plates, sandwiches, salads, pizzas and “bigger things”. Staying patriotic, the cuisine was largely American comfort food interspersed with foreign classics that have made their way into the American diet over time. For example, their small plates ranged from fried chicken fingers to crispy chicken dumplings to serrano ham with melon.

One highlight of the small plate menu was the mediterranean platter ($12) that included hummus, artichoke hearts, black and green olives, taramasalata and grilled pita. It was far from out of the ordinary but the other hundred DC restaurants that serve mediterranean platters could take notice and add artichoke hearts to their platter as a simple way to enhance the platter.

As for the main course, options included everything from chicken kebobs to steak and eggs to fish and chips. The Argentinian style skirt steak with chimichurri sauce and matchstick fries ($16) was as good as it was cheap. The steak, served rare, was oozing with juices while the Argentinian-born chimichurri brought the extra pop it’s famous for. Nothing unusual or breathtaking here, but simple and done right. Another highlight was the grilled tilapia with lemon-caper butter ($15) which was surprisingly moist and flavorful for a fish that’s usually quite bland. Ironically enough, it was better than any dish I’ve had at their fish-centric restaurant, Grillfish. On future trips, however, I’d avoid the chicken kebobs with yellow rice ($12), which was dried out and flavorless.

All in all Commissary is a success. The setting’s relaxed and versatile enough to be suited for almost any meal or occasion, and the food is both inviting and tasty. With a preponderance of overpriced yet under-performing restaurants in DC, it’s a very welcome change to see the opposite.

Commissary

1443 P St NW
Washington, DC 20005
(202) 299-0018

www.commissarydc.com